Catena Zapata: Ambassador for Argentinian wine
Located in the Mendoza appellation, Bodega Catena Zapata produces wines that are applauded by the world’s greatest critics. Winegrower, physician and author Laura Catena stopped by at Twins to tell us about her family’s history, her father’s revolutionary ideas to produce grands vins, and the special relationship that Argentinians have with Malbec.
Bodega Catena Zapata: A family’s destiny
In six generations, the Catena family has become a symbol of Argentinian viticulture. It all began when their great-grandfather left Italy for Argentina, taking with him the family winegrowing expertise. His descendants spent the 20th century working the vines in their adopted country. And now, Laura Catena continues this multigenerational adventure with her brother and sister, following in the footsteps of their father Nicolas, who is renowned for putting Argentinian wines on the world map.
“My father and grandfather were great admirers of Grands Vins, especially those from Bordeaux. My father went to California in the 1980s and heard about the wine revolution that was taking place there. He saw that Californians were trying to make Grands Vins, and he decided that he wanted to do the same thing in Argentina.”
Laura Catena
To achieve this goal, Nicolas Catena believed that the path to Grands Vins would involve “a revolution of terroirs”, as his daughter puts it. And this revolution took place at high altitudes in the 1980s. “We discovered that at high altitudes, the grapes produced more polyphenols to protect themselves from the sun. This gave us minerality, acidity and higher concentration. It was really extraordinary” she says
Malbec: From Bordeaux to Argentina
To market the Nicolas Catena Zapata vintage, the Catena family has placed its trust in Bordeaux wine merchants, and specifically, in Twins. It’s fitting in a certain way, as Mendoza wines are inextricably linked to Malbec, a historic Bordeaux variety.
Since being introduced to Argentina in the 19th century, Malbec has completely acclimatised there and represents the overwhelming majority in the Mendoza province.
On the topic of Malbec, Laura Catena is a real expert – she’s even written several books on the subject, including a declaration of love titled “Malbec Mon Amour”, aimed at sharing the variety’s history and characteristics with the public.
At Bodega Catena Zapata, Malbec is worked in multiple ways. This variety, which matures relatively late, is planted at different altitudes and then vinified by itself or in blends. The 2004 vintage of Nicolas Catena Zapata, currently being sold, is made up of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec from four terroirs located at an altitude of between 950 and 1,450 metres.
Not only has Malbec found its place in Argentinian terroirs, it’s also an integral part of the country’s culture. At an asado, a typically Argentinian social event, slow-cooked meat is enjoyed with a glass of Malbec. This is what leads Laura Catena to declare, “it’s more than a wine. This variety represents a whole culture.”
Scientific research in service of Argentinian wines
While Bodega Catena Zapata is solidly rooted in history, it also looks to the future. When we asked Laura Catena to share her vision for tomorrow, she immediately spoke of her love of science. With degrees in Biology (Harvard University) and Medicine (Stanford University), the winegrower aims to help move knowledge forward. With this in mind, she founded the Catena Institute, to undertake research for the benefit of Argentinian viticulture. “I see myself as a link in the chain,” says Laura Catena. “I have the same goal as my father, to raise the profile of Argentina as a winegrowing region.” The Institute shares also the results of its research, especially around mass selection, with other producers from the country. Yet another way in which she is following her father’s footsteps, who shared both this enthusiasm for science and the aim of winning international recognition for Argentinian wines.
Recommended food and wine pairing with Nicolas Catena Zapata 2004, by chef Arthur Leprevost:
Asado-style spiced suckling lamb, with prune compote, Jerusalem artichoke puree and powder, coffee and jus.